New Englanders put Nate's clam chowder to rest

By Jim Foster
JimFoster@coloradoan.com
Nate's Steak and Seafood

Address: 3620 S. Mason St.

Phone: 970-223-9200

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays

Reservations: Accepted

Jason knows his New England clam chowder.

This guy grew up in New England eating the stuff. He's even a huge Patriot's fan (which more and more people are admitting to these days, now that the Pats are headed to the Super Bowl.)

So it seemed fitting, the night before the AFC Championship Game, to try a little taste of New England. Jason, his wife Angela (also from New England), and myself (from Maryland), visited Nate's Steak and Seafood restaurant last Saturday, hoping to find seafood comparable to what we grew up with.

Nate's is an interesting place. It's a little bit like Red Lobster, but the food is more creative (and fewer of the menu items are fried). And it's interior is more festive (neon lights and stuffed parrots). It's casual enough for a spontaneous evening out, but the menu offers enough gourmet options to make Nate's a nice destination for a more formal evening. I'd leave the tux at home, though, it's definitely not that formal.

We were seated quickly by a friendly receptionist who pointed out the daily specials. All the specials sounded delicious, from the fresh Mahi Mahi, to the surf and turf (lobster and prime rib), which will set you back nearly $30.

The first real test for Nate's came early. Jason didn't hesitate, ordering the New England Clam Chowder ($2.50) as an appetizer. Angela started with the fried cheese sticks ($5.95), while I sat out the first course.

"It's not as creamy as it could be," Jason said of his chowder. "But it's got excellent flavor."

That's a ringing endorsement, considering Jason's background.

Intrigued, I decided to try the chowder too.

I ordered the swordfish with pineapple cilantro salsa ($15.95), with rice and a bowl of the chowder.

When the chowder arrived, I noticed it looked a little thin. Jason was right; a little more cream would thicken it up nicely. And after tasting it, I noticed a funky after taste.

"That's the clams," Jason explained. "If it were creamier, it would get rid of some of that fishy flavor."

Even with a little after taste, the chowder was flavorful and satisfying. It was the perfect lead in to the swordfish. The sweet pineapple cilantro salsa matched nicely with the fish. It wasn't overpowering, which could be a problem considering the swordfish had only a mild fish flavor.

On the other end of the spectrum, though, was Jason's pepper steak ($11.95). The thick slice of meat was covered in pepper and spices.

"That's the spiciest steak I've ever had," Jason said. "It's really good."

But be forewarned. If you don't like it spicy, don't get the pepper steak.

Angela selected the beer battered cod ($10.95). For those of you not familiar with beer battered cod, it's a fancy way of saying "fish and chips."

"It's good," Angela said. "But that's a lot of money to pay for fish and chips."

She has a point. But Nate's isn't a cut-rate restaurant. You'll pay a little more than some places because the food is of a higher quality than you'd find at a bar.

One other note: Nate's plays Julian Lennon as background music. When was the last time you heard that?


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