Mouth-watering chicken was roasting on a rotisserie embraced by red brick when Mark and I walked in to Austin's on Monday.

It was an appetizing reminder that we were visiting the local establishment's new restaurant -- a place with enough room to place the skewer in full view.

The new Austin's American Grill is out on East Harmony Road, which is close enough to the office for lunch, but still out of the way enough to feel like I'm getting away.

The wine list features mostly California vintages, mixing some of my favorite Central Coast names such as Wente and Meridian with Napa familiars like Beringer and Chandon (glasses price between $4.50 and $7.50, bottles between $17.95 and $37.95). The Australian Black Opal shiraz sparked my interest, but this was lunch hour on a Monday.

I ordered the Smoked Tenderloin Salad, new to the menu ($8.95). Mark ordered the Buffalo Meatloaf ($11.95), also new to the Austin's menu.

I couldn't help but notice the silverware. It's a technique I see more often at new restaurants since the mid-1990s -- enormous silverware made to entice the appetite. I've seen it at Carrabba's and other places as well.

I don't know if it's supposed to make me eat more or make me want to eat more. I hope neither.

My smoked tenderloin was described on the menu as "apple wood smoked pork tenderloin tossed with a roasted red pepper vinaigrette over gourmet greens." "Apple wood smoked" means the pork was slow-roasted with apple wood keeping the fire going. I've heard roasting over apple wood enhances the flavor.

It was served with roasted onions and pine nuts and those larger-than-life croutons amid the mixed greens. I dug in, having to further cut the small pork filets. It was delightful and flavorful. The pine nuts were a great finish to the meal.

Mark's buffalo meatloaf was delicious, he said. Though he prefers more spice to it. I tried it and loved it. It's made with ground buffalo, roasted garlic and portobello mushrooms. It was served with garlic mashed potatoes and Austin's coleslaw.

"I liked the dried cranberries in the coleslaw," Mark said. "I thought it was a nice touch -- very sweet."

We shared a slice of Austin's Key Lime Pie ($4.95), served with lots of whipped cream.

"We fly the key limes in from Florida," the server informed us. She also said they fresh squeeze the limes. I appreciated learning this from waitstaff without even requesting it. The service was excellent.

It was a luscious dessert and gone quickly. The pie crust was a little tough underneath. But I always love a piece of key lime pie.

Austin's is a moderately-priced restaurant, with lunch and dinner entrees range in price from $7.95 to $17.95.

The décor is artsy and comfortable with revealed beams and elegant chandeliers above, and a large bar area as classy as the one over at the new Jay's Bistro.

Austin's décor is very classy, with dark woods and wine holders built into the walls. I like it better than the one downtown. It has the space to be more like a special occasion place. Mark agreed. It's a good place to take visitors to give them a taste of locally-owned restaurants in Fort Collins.

Anna Maria Basquez is arts and entertainment reporter at the Coloradoan. Reach her at AnnaBasquez@coloradoan.com